MY PLACES, MY INSPIRATION
LUXOR LOVE
I first travelled to Luxor in 1996, just after I'd discovered Egyptian dance. So may year later, I'm now dividing my time between the UK and this beautiful place.
Of course many know it because of it's history; the temples, tombs, the stories of the Pharoahs, the myths of the goddesses and dogs.
But for me, the main appeal is in the place and it's music and dance culture, and the people.
Luxor itself is made up of two parts. The main city - the 'bit city' - is on the East Bank. It's where you'll find the souks, the railway station, the big international hotels, the hussling caleche drivers, the famous Winter Palace hotel, Luxor Temple and the amazing Temple of Karnak.
The West Bank is a different world, and here Luxor City is known as 'the other side'. Agricultural land, banana plantations, sugar cane fields, green, green, green, with a pace of life to match. This area is made up of different villages, all with a different feel. Some are very much part of the area's tourist infrastructure (Ramla, Gezira, increasingly Djorff), but others are much more local (Qurna, El Tod, Kom). There is also a growing international artistic community here, focussed on 2 arts galleries and the Wannas Art Cafe - the place to go if you're vegetarian! And if you stay in the part of town, many's the night you're hear music coming from one of the local restaurants or hotels. Music is very much part of the fabric of this place.
It is very easy to appreciate the beauty of both the East and West Bank, but I think it's also important to acknowledge that there is poverty here, and that the lives of the women, in particular, are still very much affected by traditional values. Some people judge, while others accept that change will come slowly.
But music and dance here is an important part of the local culture, and community. It's a mixture primarily of Saidi (Upper Egyptian) music and dance, and there is also the contribution of the Ghawazee (of gypsy or rom heritage).
In Saidi dance we find all the basic movement principles which then develop into other oriental/raqs sharqi styles, and which some western bellydance styles have tried to mimic, and in my view done so incorrectly; the grounded energy, the sway of the hips, the pelvic oscillations, the movement with gravity. However, it is very unlikely you will see the local people dancing, unless you are at a wedding or a moulid (a religious festival). Dance, especially for women, is not considered acceptable here unless done with friends or family. Western dancers are considered differently. What you might see is a local bellydancer, but this would be for tourists, and usually not very good either.
Much of the local dance of Upper Egypt, I offer only occasionally in my teaching work. It can be an acquired taste, and often develops after a trip to the place. Here are some of the things you might see, and at some stage might like to explore yourself.
Of course many know it because of it's history; the temples, tombs, the stories of the Pharoahs, the myths of the goddesses and dogs.
But for me, the main appeal is in the place and it's music and dance culture, and the people.
Luxor itself is made up of two parts. The main city - the 'bit city' - is on the East Bank. It's where you'll find the souks, the railway station, the big international hotels, the hussling caleche drivers, the famous Winter Palace hotel, Luxor Temple and the amazing Temple of Karnak.
The West Bank is a different world, and here Luxor City is known as 'the other side'. Agricultural land, banana plantations, sugar cane fields, green, green, green, with a pace of life to match. This area is made up of different villages, all with a different feel. Some are very much part of the area's tourist infrastructure (Ramla, Gezira, increasingly Djorff), but others are much more local (Qurna, El Tod, Kom). There is also a growing international artistic community here, focussed on 2 arts galleries and the Wannas Art Cafe - the place to go if you're vegetarian! And if you stay in the part of town, many's the night you're hear music coming from one of the local restaurants or hotels. Music is very much part of the fabric of this place.
It is very easy to appreciate the beauty of both the East and West Bank, but I think it's also important to acknowledge that there is poverty here, and that the lives of the women, in particular, are still very much affected by traditional values. Some people judge, while others accept that change will come slowly.
But music and dance here is an important part of the local culture, and community. It's a mixture primarily of Saidi (Upper Egyptian) music and dance, and there is also the contribution of the Ghawazee (of gypsy or rom heritage).
In Saidi dance we find all the basic movement principles which then develop into other oriental/raqs sharqi styles, and which some western bellydance styles have tried to mimic, and in my view done so incorrectly; the grounded energy, the sway of the hips, the pelvic oscillations, the movement with gravity. However, it is very unlikely you will see the local people dancing, unless you are at a wedding or a moulid (a religious festival). Dance, especially for women, is not considered acceptable here unless done with friends or family. Western dancers are considered differently. What you might see is a local bellydancer, but this would be for tourists, and usually not very good either.
Much of the local dance of Upper Egypt, I offer only occasionally in my teaching work. It can be an acquired taste, and often develops after a trip to the place. Here are some of the things you might see, and at some stage might like to explore yourself.
SAIDI STICK DANCE
This is primarily a dance done by men in Egypt, although some bellydancers have taken it on and developed it in a cabaret style. It developed from the tahtib, a martial art using sticks which combines graceful, powerful movement with playful competitiveness between the two players. It's still popular in the villages today. Out of this developed the stick dance itself, which is designed to show off the physical power, poise and presence of the male solo dancers. And that has developed further into a choreographed, lighter version of the dance often seen in folkloric cultural shows.
KAF SAIDI
Another dance done by men. In lines combining steps and clapping (kaf) to a simple beat.
GHAWAZEE
The ghawazee have been the paid female entertainers and local festivities and wedding for many years, but their appearances are now fewer and fewer. The most famous of these were The Maazin Sisters, one of whom, Khariyya, still teaches western visiting bellydancers. Their roots are in India, and they were part of the gypsy/Rom exodus from India. Their dance combines powerful yet fluid hipswork with sagat playing. And although many western dancers are fascinated by them, their style is largely misrepresented. The use of feet is very important for the correct hipwork, and also it is here you see the links back into India and forward into the Celtic world.
ZAR/ZIKR
Even more private than the above dance styles, these are the meditative dance of the sufi and the trance rituals of the villages. To simple hynoptic, repetitive beats, the dancer reaches a stage of trance.
TANNOURA
The uniquely Egyptian form of entertainment built on the sufi practice of whirling. Done in a costume in a large, colourful skirt to emphasise the circular motion, and often involving tricks to entertain the audience.
